The west ridge is the normal and most popular route in order to ascend Mt. Ama Dablam.
In addition, an expedition to Ama Dablam is more than just a climb it’s a journey into the heart of the Himalayas. Located in the Khumbu valley of Nepal, only 12 km from the summit of Mount Everest, Ama Dablam demands the attention of every passer-by. Soaring ridgelines and super-steep faces guard the summit from all but the experienced climber.
The first ascent (via the SW ridge) of Ama Dablam was not made until the mid 60’s by a strong NZ/USA team. The north ridge fell to a talented French team in 1979. In recent years many parties have successfully climbed the mountain, with nearly all ascents via the original SW ridge route.
Ama Dablam is considered to be technically difficult and a challenging peak for all mountaineers. This unforgettable climb in the Khumbu region of Nepal starts/ends in Lukla. It involves an exciting trek up to the base camp, rock, snow and ice climbing and stunning panoramic summit views of world’s highest & most famous mountains.
Day 01 : Arrival at Kathmandu International Airport and transfer to hotel.
Day 02 : Preparation day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 03 : Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla
Day 04 : Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.)
Day 05 : Rest at Namche Bazaar
Day 06 : Trek from Namche Bazaar
Day 07 : Trek from Tyanboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp. Stay overnight at camp.
Day 25 : Trek from Ama Dablam Base camp to Namche. Stay overnight at lodge.
Day 26 : Trek from Namche Bazaar
Day 27 : Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu
Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu
Day 28 : Rest day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 29 : Fly out from Kathmandu
Day 8-24 : Ama Dablam
Climbing period for Ama Dablam. Stay overnight at camp. Base camp (4600 m): Situated on a large grassy meadow with a wonderful views. To yak camp (5400 m): Yaks carry most of our equipment for this section, which saves three to four hours of heavy work. There is a rough track over very rocky terrain, which we and the yaks use. To camp I (5800 m): Your first real camp is only one and a half hours walk above Yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. You sometimes fix a couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail. Camp I to Camp II (6000 m): Now, you begin your climb. This route mostly involves rock climbing. You follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you will be grateful for the fixed ropes in place. You can also use your jumar to help you over the odd spots of difficulties. Most of the climbing on this section is traversing on rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain. Camp II: Situated on top of the Yellow Tower on a narrow platform, this camp site is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here, it would probably land in base camp! Camp II to Camp III (6300m): Now, for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route we follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three. Camp III: A cold and exposed position is the start of your summit push. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. It is, however, the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit. Summit day: The initial route is to the right of the huge “Dablam” (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope. Once past this feature we move toward the centre of the face. The angle eases slightly and a couple of tough hours later we emerge on the summit (6856 m). The summit is the size of a tennis court and allows us to move around and take pictures. Five of the world’s six highest peaks are clearly visible, with many other 7000m and lesser peaks filling the gaps.
Trip Duration 30 days
Max. Altitude 6300 m
Group Size 1+